From the historical Māori kāinga (settlement) of Opotaka near National Park you look directly out to Motuopuhi Island, where Māori rangatira (chief) Te Rauparaha famously hid from his pursuers in a kumara pit. The event was the spark for ‘Ka Mate’, the famous haka later adopted by the All Blacks in which the great Ngāti Toa chief describes emerging from doubt and darkness into the light of day.