Talk about a lovely, lonely landmark. The 1859 lighthouse on Wellington Harbour’s windblasted Pencarrow Head radiates romantic isolation as vividly as the beam it once cast, which on clear nights used to reach as far as Marlborough’s Cloudy Bay. Read the story of widow, Mary (and her gaggle of children), who took on the job as Aotearoa New Zealand’s first – and only – female lighthouse keeper. And getting to the iconic landmark is half the fun!